ONE-A-DAY
-Julian Zelazny '96
Brewers have always been responsive to the seasons in
plying their trade. Originally that was because the seasons
dictated the brewing conditions, before the advent of
refrigeration and other modern technologies. Most of the world's
brewing regions were too hot to brew during the months leading up
to October, but the autumn was the return of brewing season and
brewers have had no difficulty in finding inspiration for their
creations.
The sights and smells of autumn are all around us. The
amber and russet that defines the look of the season are as
pervasive as the aroma of the wood fired stoves that take the
fall chill out of the air. Witches and ghosts make their way
through the old New England landscape dotted with pumpkins. My
eyes become fixated upon the great orange squash that has become
such a symbol of this season, and I promise myself that this
vegetable will be the basis for my next beer.
But don't laugh, this is no flight of fancy. Craft brewers
have been making pumpkin ales for many years, and homebrewers are
brewing squashy suds across North America. A recent issue of a
homebrewing journal was dedicated entirely to beers with special
ingredients. Pumpkin ale was included among the specialties in an
article about nutmeg. In addition to pumpkin and nutmeg, the
recipe called for mace, cinnamon, and ginger in a base ale that
is malty, brownish and sweet.
Those who would like to experience this for themselves may
do so at the Boston Beer Works, a brewpub across Brookline Avenue
from Fenway Park. Every autumn the BBW brews and serves one of
the finest examples of pumpkin ale that can be found anywhere.
The spices are subtle and the ale is smooth. The spiciness and
the sweetness blend beautifully in a product both big in body and
low in alcohol. The flavor is akin to pumpkin pie in a glass -
the experience is highly recommended.
Another autumnal ale is available a bit closer to home. Otter
Creek Brewing has a seasonal offering called Hickory Switch
Smoked Ale. I presume the inspiration for this ale is the aroma
of wood stove fires in the air. Admittedly this is not a taste
for everyone. The reaction to this beer is rarely neutral,
either you love it or you think it stinks. Hickory Switch is a
deep copper to brown ale with a distinctive smoky taste. Those
who enjoy it call it an experience not unlike a good smoked
sausage or perhaps smoked Gruyere. The base is a rich tasting
ale that has a -dare I say- bacony flavor to it.
The bacon flavor is the result of smoking grains over maple.
For those who would like to try a truly excellent smoked beer
without any carnivorous connotations to the flavor profile may
prefer the Smoked Porter at the Vermont Pub and Brewery in
Burlington. Softer smoke character is produced using fruit tree
wood. Apple comes highly recommended by VPB's Greg Noonan. The
Smoked Porter is a deeply black beer with a rich chocolatey malt
character typical of good porters, but with a pronounced smoke
character. The smoke is not overpowering and is the product of a
small percentage of smoked barley malt used in the brewing
process. The best news of all is that the VPB does not make this
as a seasonal ale, but it is on tap year round.
Smoked beers are not a recent development, nor are they an
American innovation. The German city of Bamberg is identified
with smoked beer. The Germans call it "rauchbier" and it is
produced by kilning the malt over fires of the locally available
beechwood. Unlike the beers mentioned above, Bamberger rauchbier
is not an ale, but is a lager and therefore fermented cold. The
locals themselves claim that several liters must be consumed
before a taste is acquired, but that might just be good
marketing.
Autumn is here, but it won't last long. Soon the bitter
winds of New England's winter will take over and brewers and
imbibers will turn to the warming beers of the colder season.
Until then, be sure to take advantage of the specialties offered
for your approval this fall.
1. Zymurgy (17) 4 1994
2. Jackson, M., The New World Guide to Beer, Running Press, 1988
If you have any comments, questions or advice concerning this
article or anything else that may be on your mind, please feel
free to email me.
(back)