ONE-A-DAY
Julian Zelazny '96
It would seem logical to assume that beer brewed in Scotland
is the same as that brewed in England. That, however, is not the
case. In a country known more for its Scotch whiskey, Scotch ale
is a distinctive tradition and a source of pride for its brewers.
Oddly, Scottish brewing tradition has as much similarity to the
lager brewers on the continent as to the neighboring English. For
instance, the Scots boil their wort (unfermented beer, sounds
like "Bert") for only 1.5 hours, about half the time of the
English brewers. The Scots use a cooler and longer ferment than
the English, though not as cool nor as long as a lager brewer.
They lagered (cold stored) their beer for up to six months, and
they used soft water in direct contrast to the very hard waters
of England.
The cool fermentation temperatures dictate that the beer will
be less ale-like in its flavor than its English counterparts. The
typical ale characteristics of fruity flavors and aromas are
greatly subdued, providing a cleaner malt character. The use of
soft water also reduces the perceived bitterness of the ale,
further bringing out its maltiness. In case you haven't been
paying attention, the key word is maltiness and that means
sweetness as well.
The term Scottish ale refers to a range of similarly produced
and balanced ales known commonly as 60/-, 70/-, 80/-, and 90/-
(sixty shilling, etc.). The terminology comes from the price of a
barrel of the ale about a hundred years ago. These beers can be
arranged on a continuum from the amber, malty, relatively light
bodied side to the slightly roasty, deep copper full bodied ales
at the high end.
Distinct from the Scottish ales is Scotch ale, and upon this
style we will concentrate. These beers are traditionally very big
and malty, a perfect warmer in a cool climate. Scotch ales are
deep copper to brown in color with a pronounced maltiness that
may include a slight smoky character. This is said to be from the
Scottish malt that was kilned over peat fires. The peat smokiness
permeated the malt and imparted a subtle but distinctive flavor.
There are a number of commercial examples of this style
available in New England to satisfy your curiosity and your
thirst. Edinburgh's Caledonian brewery has a wonderful product
called MacAndrew's Scotch Ale. The label depicts the face of a
Scotty dog and around the border of this picture are the word's
"Man's Best Friend." This name and its packaging are unique to
the American market, which should cause one to wonder what
exactly they think of us in Scotland. Still, this beer is
reliably outstanding and can be found in most good beer stores.
The city of Dunbar offers a Scotch ale from the Belhaven
Brewery. Though a bit less sweet and lighter than some of its
kin, it remains well worth the price of a bottle. In a village
called Innerleithen is an old castle called Traquair House. This
castle, which enjoys a storied past, has been inhabited by the
Stewart family since 1478. Peter Maxwell Stewart, the 20th Lord
of Traquair House, restored the castle in 1965. At that time he
discovered the old brewing equipment in a barn and proceeded to
restore it. The brewery that is in use at Traquair is composed of
the traditional equipment and methods. According to Noonan there
are many homebrewers in this country with more sophisticated
equipment than Traquair. Perhaps this is why their ale is so
special. It is difficult to find and a bit pricey at $5 for 6
ounces, but if you can find it you must buy it. This beer is
truly a delight. Along with its big malt flavor, Traquair House
is dark, rich and oaky. It is a beer to be enjoyed from a
traditional Scottish thistle-shaped glass while sitting next to a
roaring fire.
We are fortunate to have a top quality Scotch ale nearby. The
Vermont Pub and Brewery in Burlington is owned by the same
Gregory J. Noonan that wrote the book referenced below. The VPB
has a terrific example of the style on tap for your appreciation.
Because of the strength of this ale it is only available in small
glasses, yet it is still plenty for your daily constitutional.
References:
Noonan, Gregory J., Scotch Ale Brewer's Publications 1993.
Jackson, M. Michael Jackson's Beer Companion, Running Press,
1993.
Noonan, Gregory J. Personal communication.
If you have any comments, questions or advice concerning this
article or anything else that may be on your mind, please feel
free to email me.
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