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Before instituting any training program, see your veterinarian. In many cases, the underlying reason for aggression is pain or discomfort. Rule this out first, not last. Next determine cause, then act accordingly. This chapter is designed to give you insight only. For any serious biting or aggression, seek out a qualified trainer that uses positive reinforcement techniques. Over dominant approaches can have a reverse effect over time. Above all, understand the underlying reasons for the behavior and then use your common sense.
Common Reasons for Biting Behavior:
Talking back - multiple barks, barking, ears forward, tail wagging
Herding - moving things with mouth
Retaliation* - dominance
Dominance* - cause; children, animals, adults, perceives himself as Alpha
Nipping - sharp repeated small bites, usually associated with puppy play or with herding breeds (Border collie, sheltie, Australian shepherd...)
Forward Bite, Unprovoked** - body language upright, situational
Forward Bite, Provoked**- body language upright, situational
Play bite - over exuberant mouth play, usually stronger desire in retrieving/herding breeds.
Fear bite* - fast moves, children, common in German Shepherd types
Food - protection, guarding
* Can be dangerous, get professional help. The wrong advice or method could make it worse. Generally these dogs re-train well and can become a member of your family.
** Very dangerous situation. Do not attempt to do this one alone, seek professional help! Keep in mind that not all dogs can be re-trained to live within a family situation.
Not all biting is true aggression, some is exhuberance or instinctual. It is essential that you know ‘why’ your dog is biting. Not all biting dogs are treated the same. Once you understand you dog’s motivation, the re-training will be more effective and safe.
A professional trainer with behavior experience can give you the best insight on the reasons why. They should meet the dog and see the behavior in order to make a correct assessment on his motivation and give you the appropriate advice.
Crate Training
In the layman's world, crate training can be a controversial topic. I can assure you that if used properly, a crate is the most natural way to train a dog. In the wild, dog’s are denning animals. When danger is around, they search for a small place to hide. When it’s time to have their young, they search for a small place to whelp. The crate is your dog’s den. It will make him more confident, more secure and much more behaved.
The crate should never be used for punishment. It’s their “time-out” place. They get cookies in their crate, they get toys in their crate but they never get thrown in their crate. If you dog is trained correctly he will always voluntarily go into his crate.
If you feel your dog has done some inexplicable behavior and must be punished, do your disciple out of the crate. Short and sweet works best - don’t overdo it and give negative attention. Remember he gets only positive attention or no attention. We need to learn to take the negative attention out of the picture.
This tells him what he did bad. Now you must show him what would have been a preferable behavior... going to his crate and eating his own toys. Ask him to get into his crate (in a nice voice). When he does praise him (positive attention). This way he understands the “don’t do this... but do this” concept.
What kind of crate is best? Wire crates promote a more social dog. It allows him to be part of the family goings on. Airline type crates are safer for traveling and for dogs that dig at the door and carry on (chewing on bars etc).
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