Hello! Welcome to my R/C (radio control) page. On this page you will find info on R/C cars and trucks, including set-up tips.
I have writen a program that calculates gear ratios for R/C cars and trucks. Click HERE to go to my Gear Ratios! home page for more information.
LAST UPDATED 5/27/96
COOL STUFF ABOUT MY 
I have used my new Litespeed SuperConnectors. (I was using Tamiya battery connectors. I hard-wire my motor.) They rule! Using them I am able to gear down 5 teeth (20 tooth pinion, 88 spur in my XXT), but still go faster than before. Also, they keep the motor, battery and speed controller at a lower tempature. Installing them was hard, but the performance gain is outstanding. I strongly reccommend useing SuperConnectors, or any high performace connector, in your R/C car or truck.
Before I got my XXT, I put 2.2" truck wheels and tires on my JRX-PRO SE buggy. With buggy wheels and tires, I was running a 25 to 28 tooth pinion gear in the car. With the truck wheels and tires, I had to run a 20 to 25 tooth pinion. I set everything (camber and toe-in) to zero degrees just to see what it would run like. After running for a while, I dialed in about 3 degrees of rear negative camber to loosen up the rear end a little in the corners, because the bigger footprint of the 2.2 tire gave me more rear traction than I like. I kept the stock anti-squat support. I also dialed in a degree or two of front toe-in to increase steering response a bit. Eventually I dialed in 2 degrees of front negative camber, for more steering (I run on a VERY tight track.) Try setting up your buggy with 2.2" truck wheels and tires; it's a blast!
When I was building my Team Losi XXT I stripped the diff nut carrier in the differential. I called Losi about this and they told me what the problem was. The diff uses two 5 x 8 mm bearings that are nearly the same size as one of the top-shaft bearings. If the slight size difference is not noticed and the top-shaft bearing is used in the diff, when tightened it will squash the bearing, not the diff balls. This can be elieminated if you make sure you use two IDENTICAL bearings in the diff. If you do strip the nut-carrier, you can fix it by CA glueing the 4-40 mini-locknut inside the stripped nut carrier.
If you want the best performace from your car of truck, use the correct motor for the application. In my XXT I use a Trinity Green Machine2, and in my Team Losi JRX PRO SE, I use a Trinity Slot Machine2. I do NOT recommend useing a Slot Machine2 in a truck, because it doesn't have enough power to give proper acceleration. In a buggy, it has more than enough power, and the slightly increased RPM gives lots of speed. The XXT seems to be sluggish off the line, with any stock motor, but the Green Machine2 works best of the motors I'v tried. If you are going to buy a motor to use in two vehicles, and one is a truck, make sure the motor has enough power, 'cause a GM2 will work fine in a buggy andin a truck, but the Slot Machine2 will not (in my opinion.)
I got a new Dahm's Slammer X truck body for christmas and it looks very sleek. It has a molded-in front spoiler, that bends out below the front grill, and an optional rear spoiler that attaches to the back of the truck bed. The profile of this body is exceptionally low, and good looking. The side panels can be bent in, making it possible to attach the body to the chassis sides with VelcroŽ.
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This site is maintained by Nate Warren. E-mail me!
